I want to tell you more about Zanzibar. On our second day I woke up feeling a little blue. This is normal enough for me, especially when I think too much, and being in Zanzibar for a day and a half had already given me much to think about. I wandered down to the beach to watch the ocean. Khalidi found me and was immediately perceptive and sensitive to my melancholy. In an effort to cheer me up he invited me to come see his friend’s property, which is located just off the road behind the beach. We walked a narrow path through tall green foliage to the back road, then up a little hill and onto a beautiful property with some partially built structures, a huge lovely garden and a tent. This was my first time at Nemshi’s place. Nemshi soon became our other close Zanzibari friend. Nemshi wasn’t around that afternoon, so Khalidi and I just relaxed on a hammock and talked to one another slowly and in broken English. I was surprised by the sensitivity he showed me after only meeting me the day before. I laid in the hammock and stared at a beautiful tree full of bright yellow flowers, brilliant against a vibrant blue sky. My spirits lifted.
Later, in the early evening, Khalidi and I brought Sam back to see the property and we had the pleasure of meeting Nemshi for the first time. He proudly showed us around the structures he is in the process of building. His plan is to create a restaurant, and eventually a small hotel. He is building the entire thing with his hands, and living in a tiny tent on the property while he works. Nemshi is one of the most generous, warm people either Sam or I have ever met. We began visiting Nemshi on his property most evenings. He was every time such a lovely host. Nemshi has very little, but somehow managed to always be giving to us. We would sit around with him, Khalidi and usually a few other friends, communicating in the limited way that we could, swapping English and Swahili words and laughing at our mispronunciations. It would grow dark and often we would all just stay quiet, watching the stars fall and enjoying the simple company of friendly, loving people.
On our third day in Zanzibar we awoke early to take a dolphin tour to the south beach, called Kizimkazi. We arranged this tour through the hotel and were joined by three young South Africans who were also staying at the Safari Club. It was another jolting, hot van ride with another friendly local driver. Just staring out the window as we drove down the island was wonderful. Kizimkazi is a beautiful, beautiful beach. The waters are filled with small wooden boats. It is an unrealistically pretty sight. I took photos, but knew I would never capture it and that it was best to simply drink it in while I could. We waded out into the warm ocean with our snorkeling gear to our boat, ‘Moby Dick.’ There were 8 of us in total; the three SAs, our driver, the boat owner and his sidekick and Sam and myself. Soon we were in the middle of the ocean. First, we chased the dolphins. It was a wonderfully hectic experience. We would spot some dolphins surfacing a ways off and follow them in the boat. Then suddenly the Zanzibaris would be yelling at us to get into the water, hurry, hurry, follow them, this way, that way!!! We all clumsily pulled on our flippers and masks and dropped into the water, breathlessly swimming after the dolphins. I was always the last one in the water and the men laughed at me and teased me that I was lazy. I was just so overwhelmed! I did manage to see the dolphins up close though. I dipped my masked face into the water and there they were, probably six of them, swimming directly below me. It was breathtaking.
Next they took us to another spot to snorkel. This was a little less hectic. We swam around checking out the bright fish. I grew tired of the mask and spent most of my time just swimming and watching the storm move in. The water was turquoise and the sky a deep grey. Lightening broke up the sky and thunder rolled. I swam and the water grew choppier.
Once we were back in our little wooden boat, the guys served us pineapple and bananas. As I sat on the bow eating dripping pineapple the rain started. It came hard and stinging. I was drenched from the rain, from the ocean, from the pineapple and I just sat there and grinned, loving that all the water just mixed together warm and wild. Soon we were all drenched and laughing as the boat rocked its way back to the beach. Our ability to communicate with the Zanzibari guys was limited, but it was clear we were all thoroughly enjoying ourselves. Laughter is universal, after all.
Photos: top: the view from the porch of our cottage in Zanzibar; next: the trail to Nemshi's; next: Nemshi's-- he's the one in the back on the left; next: the yellow flowers in the tree!; next: Kizimkazi; next: after the storm, walking back from the boat; next: the view from the parked van at Kizimkazi
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